Dress styles
Dress fabrics: chiffon, satin, tulle, organza, lace and more
Dress fabrics decide how a formal gown moves: whether it floats, clings or stands away from the body. This page compares the 9 fabrics used most on wedding, bridesmaid and evening dresses, the lace names you will see, and what to check on a swatch.
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Weave and fibre: two different questions
A fabric name usually describes how the cloth is woven or made, not what it is made of. Satin is a weave; chiffon and organza are sheer plain weaves; tulle is a netting; lace is an openwork textile. Each can be made from silk or from synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon or rayon, so “silk satin” and “polyester satin” are the same weave in different fibres.
Silk versions came first and were costly: early chiffon was pure silk and a sign of status. Nylon chiffon was invented in 1938 and polyester chiffon in 1958, which became hugely popular for its resilience and low cost. Silk takes dye beautifully and feels softer; synthetics are cheaper and tougher, and some survive a machine wash where silk chiffon must be dry cleaned.
The fabrics compared
| Fabric | What it is | Where it works |
|---|---|---|
| Chiffon | A lightweight, sheer plain weave of high-twist yarns; floats and drapes, and frays easily | Overlays that make an evening gown look light and floating |
| Georgette | A sheer, dull-finished crêpe; springier and less lustrous than chiffon | Loose, flowing dresses rather than structured ones |
| Charmeuse | A light satin weave with a shiny face and a matt back; it clings and hangs | Bias-cut, fluid gowns; never full, flared skirts |
| Crêpe | A fabric of hard-twisted yarns with a crisp, crimped surface; silk, wool or synthetic | Sheath and column dresses with a matt finish |
| Satin | A weave rather than a fibre: long floating yarns give a glossy face and a dull back; it can snag | Evening gowns and ball gowns; heavy duchesse satin for structured bridal gowns |
| Lace | An openwork textile with a pattern of holes, made by hand or machine | Trim and overlays, and the sheer top of an illusion neckline |
| Taffeta | A crisp, smooth plain weave that holds its shape and does not drape | Ball gowns and wedding dresses |
| Organza | A thin, sheer plain weave with a crisp hand, stiff for its weight | Sheer layers that stand away from the body |
| Tulle | A fine, stiff hexagonal netting, often starched; most often polyester | Veils, wedding gowns, and petticoats that hold a skirt out |
- Fluid: falls and clings. Chiffon, Georgette, Charmeuse. Best for Empire, sheath and bias-cut gowns and for overlays.
- Soft: drapes but has some body. Crêpe, Satin, Lace. The all-rounders: A-line, trumpet and fitted bodices.
- Crisp: holds its own shape. Taffeta, Organza, Tulle. For full skirts, volume and structure.
Chiffon, georgette, organza and tulle: the sheer four
Four of the fabrics here are sheer — chiffon, georgette, organza, tulle — and they are easy to confuse on a screen. Chiffon is smoother and more lustrous than georgette, which is springier and duller. Chiffon flows when draped, while organza is stiffer and holds a crisp line. Tulle is firmer still, a mesh netting rather than a woven cloth.
Tulle is named after the town of Tulle in central France, a lace and silk centre in the 18th century. It is the classic fabric for veils, because it hides the face while letting the wearer see out, and for petticoats, where several stiff layers puff out a gown. Chiffon frays easily, so seams in it are bound or French-seamed; a frayed or puckered seam on a sample is a sign of rushed sewing.
Satin, charmeuse and taffeta: shine and structure
Satin's glossy face comes from long yarns floating over several others, which reflect light evenly; the same floats make it prone to snagging. Heavy, stiff duchesse satin is used for structured bridal gowns. Charmeuse is a lighter satin weave with a different float ratio: it clings and hangs, so it suits fluid, bias-cut gowns and is never used for full, flared skirts.
Taffeta is crisp and smooth and holds its shape rather than draping, which is why it appears in ball gowns and wedding dresses. Yarn-dyed silk taffeta is much stiffer than the softer piece-dyed kind used for linings.
Lace names on wedding dresses
Lace is an openwork textile, made by hand or by machine; the earliest surviving examples are from 16th-century Italy. Most lace on modern dresses is machine-made in synthetic thread, but the pattern often carries an old name:
| Lace | How it is made | What it looks like |
|---|---|---|
| Chantilly | Bobbin lace, named after Chantilly in France; a tradition from the 17th century | A fine ground with detailed patterns outlined in a flat, untwisted thread; the best was silk and often black |
| Alençon | Needle lace from Alençon, France, where lace-making began in the 16th century | A mesh ground with motifs raised by an outline of close buttonhole stitches; sometimes called the “Queen of lace” |
How to judge a fabric swatch
Colour and fabric are the two things a screen gets wrong most often, so many makers sell or lend small samples — swatches — before an order. A swatch is cheap insurance when several bridesmaids must match, or when a dress is made to order and cannot be returned.
- Look in daylight and in evening light. Colours shift between them; check the swatch where the event will be.
- Crush it in your hand. Note how quickly creases fall out — the dress will spend hours sitting down and travelling.
- Hold it up to the light. Sheer fabrics need a lining; ask what colour it is, because it changes the shade you see.
- Check both sides. Satin and charmeuse have a shiny face and a matt back; make sure you know which side faces out.
- Compare dye lots. Fabric from different production runs can differ slightly, so order matching dresses together.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between chiffon and georgette?
Both are sheer crêpe-yarn fabrics. Chiffon is smoother and more lustrous; georgette is springier and duller, with a crinkly surface.
Is tulle the same as organza?
No. Tulle is a netting with small hexagonal holes, often starched; organza is a thin, sheer woven cloth with a crisp hand. Both add volume, but tulle is firmer and more open.
Which fabric holds a full skirt best?
Crisp fabrics: taffeta, organza and tulle, or a heavy satin, usually over petticoats or layers of stiff tulle.
Is satin a fibre?
No, satin is a weave. Silk satin and polyester satin use the same weave with different fibres; a satin weave in short cotton yarns is called sateen.
Keep reading
- Wedding dress silhouettes: ball gown, A-line, sheath, mermaid and moreWedding dress silhouettes compared: ball gown, A-line, sheath, Empire, trumpet and mermaid, plus waistlines, maternity and short wedding dresses.
- Bridesmaid dresses: matching, colours, fabrics and who paysBridesmaid dresses explained: the roles in a bridal party, matching or mix-and-match, silhouettes and fabrics that suit several bodies, swatches and who pays.
- Wedding accessories: veil lengths, gloves, wraps, sashes and bouquetsWedding accessories explained: veil lengths from blusher to cathedral, mantillas, glove lengths, wraps and boleros, sashes, tiaras and bridal bouquet shapes.
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