# Dress necklines: sweetheart, bateau, halter and more

> Dress necklines explained with drawings: sweetheart, strapless, off-the-shoulder, bateau, halter, one-shoulder, V, square, scoop and illusion.

Canonical: https://sisdress.com/dress-necklines
Updated: 2026-11-01

Dress necklines are named by the shape of the top edge and where it crosses the body. This page draws the 10 you will meet on formal and wedding dresses, explains what each shows or covers, and how strapless bodices stay up.

## The neckline shapes, drawn

The neckline is the top edge of a garment around the neck and shoulders. Necklines are grouped by their shape — curved, straight, V or U — and by where they cut across the body: high on the collarbones, across the chest, or below the shoulders.

*Each neckline on the same dress form. The illusion neckline's sheer upper layer is shown pale.*

**Formal-dress necklines and what they show**

| Neckline | The shape | Worth knowing |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Sweetheart | A curved, doubly scalloped edge like the top half of a heart | Accentuates the bust; the strapless version is common on wedding dresses |
| Strapless | No straps at all; the bodice is held up by its own fit, usually over an internal corset or boning | Most other necklines also come in a strapless version |
| Off-the-shoulder | Lower than a boat neck, below the shoulders and collarbone, usually passing over the upper arms | Shows the shoulders, collarbone and neck; also called the Carmen neckline |
| Bateau (boat) | High, wide and nearly straight, running across the collarbones almost to the shoulder points | Covers the chest; taken from French sailors' shirts |
| Halter | A V or scoop front with a strap that ties or fastens behind the neck | Hides cleavage, shows the collarbone; the back is usually bare |
| One-shoulder | A single edge cutting diagonally from one shoulder to under the other arm | An asymmetric line; one arm and shoulder are bare |
| V-neck | Two diagonal lines from the shoulders meeting on the chest | From high to plunging; evening gowns often cut it low |
| Square | Three straight edges meeting at right angles, the sides passing over the shoulders | Used on wedding dresses since at least the 1800s |
| Scoop | A curved U, its arms hanging on the shoulders | Its depth varies from high to plunging |
| Illusion | A low, often strapless neckline with sheer fabric or lace above it | The sheer layer draws a second, higher line; often seen on white wedding dresses |

## How a strapless dress stays up

A strapless bodice has no visible support, so it is held by its own fit: usually an internal corset or built-in bra, with boning, and a bodice tight enough not to slip. Since the 1980s some strapless dresses have been made in stretch fabrics that need no boning, but a fitted formal gown usually still relies on structure inside.

- **Fit at the top edge.** The bodice should sit firmly against the body when you raise your arms and when you sit; gaping at the top edge means it needs taking in.
- **Weight below.** A heavy skirt pulls a strapless bodice down. Ask whether the gown has a waist stay — an inner band that carries the weight at the waist.
- **Options later.** Detachable straps or a light jacket can be added for the ceremony and removed for the reception.

## High and wide: bateau, square and illusion

A **bateau** or boat neck runs almost horizontally, front and back, nearly to the points of the shoulders. It came from the striped shirts of French sailors — a French Navy uniform used it in 1858 — and moved into evening wear as a clean, covered line. A **square** neckline has three straight edges and has been used on wedding dresses since at least the 1800s.

The **illusion** neckline is a compromise between low and high: a low, often strapless neckline with sheer tulle or lace laid above it, which draws a second, higher neckline. It is often seen on traditional white wedding dresses, and works where a church or family expects covered shoulders.

## Shoulders and back: off-the-shoulder, halter and one-shoulder

An **off-the-shoulder** neckline sits lower than a boat neck, below the shoulders and collarbone; it was the height of fashion in the early to mid-19th century. A **halter** has a V or scoop front with a strap that ties or fastens behind the neck, so it covers the chest, shows the collarbone and usually leaves the upper back bare — the strap can even be hidden under the hair. A **one-shoulder** neckline cuts diagonally from one shoulder to under the other arm.

> **Choose the underwear with the neckline** Halter, off-the-shoulder and low-backed dresses rule out ordinary bras. Decide the neckline first, then bring the right strapless, adhesive or built-in support to every fitting.

## V-neck, scoop and sweetheart

A **V-neck** is formed by two diagonal lines meeting on the chest, and a **scoop** by a curved U; both range from high to plunging, and evening gowns often cut them low. A **sweetheart** neckline has a curved, doubly scalloped lower edge like the top half of a heart. It accentuates the bust, and its strapless version is common on wedding dresses.

Any of these can be changed: layering tulle or lace over a low neckline turns it into an illusion neckline, and edges can be finished with scallops, beading or ruffles. A neckline is also easier to raise with an overlay than a hem is to lengthen, so it is worth discussing early with whoever alters the dress.

## Frequently asked questions

### What is a sweetheart neckline?

A neckline whose lower edge curves in two scallops like the top half of a heart. It accentuates the bust; the strapless sweetheart is a common wedding-dress neckline.

### What is the difference between a bateau and an off-the-shoulder neckline?

Height. A bateau or boat neck is high and wide, crossing the collarbones and sitting on both shoulders; an off-the-shoulder neckline sits lower, below the shoulders and collarbone, over the upper arms.

### What is an illusion neckline?

A low, often strapless neckline with sheer fabric or lace above it, creating a second, higher line. It covers the shoulders lightly while keeping the look of a strapless bodice.

### How does a strapless wedding dress stay up?

With an internal corset or built-in bra, boning, and a close fit at the bodice. A waist stay inside the dress also helps carry a heavy skirt.